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Ikat from Lio, Flores Group, Indonesia

055 Flores Group, Lio

Semba (man's shawl)  magnifier

Origin: Flores Group, Lio
Locale: Nggela.
Period: 1950 or before.
Yarn: Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Technique: Warp ikat
Panels: 1
Size: 63.5 x 166 cm (2' 1" x 5' 5")
Weight: 315 g (11.1 oz), 299 g/m2 (0.98 oz/ft2)
Design: Selenda sinde motif, patola-inspired design with jilamprang motifs and tumpal borders: an almost perfect patola imitation in two shades of morinda red and violet black (red overdyed with indigo) with a few accents in pure indigo.
Comment: Male ritual leader's shawl, luka semba, to be worn once a year during the four day adat festival. Excellent example of Nggela technique. Tight weaving, producing strong patterning in subtle hues.
Background: Additional information in chapters on Flores Group and Lio.
Exhibited: Museu do Oriente, Lisbon, 2014/15
Published: Peter ten Hoopen, Woven Languages, 2014
Compare: 054 056
Literature: Nearly identical piece from L.A. County Museum of Art, M.77.93.3, depicted in Hunt Kahlenberg, Textile Traditions of Indonesia, Fig. 52. Another nearly identical semba, pre-1939, in Tropenmuseum, Nr. TM-1772-1155. See also Gittinger, Splendid Symbols, Fig. 128. Khan Majlis, Indonesische Textilien, Wege zu Goettern und Ahnen, Fig. 374 (identified as Ende). Khan Majlis, Woven Messages, Fig. 168. Maxwell, Textiles of South East Asia, Fig. 23.
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